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DMZ: What it's like to visit the North Korean border

Melissa Twigg remembers an uncomfortable visit to what’s often seen as a tourist attraction For a disconcerting moment I felt like I was on safari. A red-headed bird emerged from a nearby bush, fluttering towards a startled white crane that was picking away at the hard ground, and I instinctively picked up my camera to take a photograph. Until I remembered that along with a clause accepting my potential impending death and the presence of landmines all around me, I had signed away the right to take any photographs that pointed in the direction of North Korea. On a whim, on the back of a glitzy weekend filled with beauty products and barbecues in skyscraper-ringed Seoul, I had decided to spend my last afternoon in the country on a tour of Korea’s Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) – between South and North Korea. Kim Jong-un crosses into South Korea for historic meeting In stark contrast to the violent restrictions on every step taken by a human being, red-spotted deer and brown bears roam freely in the untouched 2.5-mile wide stretch of land that runs across the length of this divided peninsula – one which remains the world’s last Cold War border.  Our tour set off from Seoul on a cool spring afternoon to Panmunjom. Known colloquially as the “truce village”, it is where the 1953 Korean Armistice Agreement was signed, and is where Kim Jong-un became the first North Korean leader to cross into South Korean territory earlier today, walking over the Military Demarcation Line to meet President Moon Jae-in of South Korea. It is undoubtedly the biggest step forward this conflict has seen in nearly seven decades. Today, the DMZ is under the glare of the world’s attention. But when I was there in 2016, I found it oppressively quiet, with only the chatter from my tour group and the occasional bird cry breaking the silence. Eerily, although it is quiet, there are people everywhere, with troops mere feet away from each other in their dark brown uniforms, clutching guns the size of children and staring stonily ahead of them.  Korea Summit: Kim Jong-un crosses border for historic meeting North Korean leader Kim Jong-un and South Korean President Moon Jae-in sign on a joint statement North Korean leader Kim Jong-un and South Korean President Moon Jae-in embrace each other after signing on a joint statement North Korean leader Kim Jong-un, left, and South Korean President Moon Jae-in shake hands after their joint announcement On the North Korean side, behind the soldiers is a double line of tall, chainlink fences topped with razor wire.

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Immigration and civil-rights lawyers fear that it slams the door on many desperate people from the Muslim-majority countries that were affected, particularly those with relatives in the United States, who saw the Supreme Court as their last hope. The timing of the ruling, as European Union countries are toughening policies toward refugees and asylum seekers, reinforced an atmosphere of a Western backlash to migrants, even as the global population of forcibly displaced people grows. Three of the Muslim-majority countries affected by Mr. Trump’s order — Libya, Yemen and Syria — have known only war for years. A fourth, Somalia, has suffered through varying degrees of mayhem for decades. While antiterrorism experts consider the countries to be breeding grounds for violent extremism, the Supreme Court’s ruling will do nothing to hasten the end of the underlying conflicts there. Although Mr. Trump’s executive order allows for granting exceptions on a case-by-case basis, lawyers said they had seen little or no evidence of such a process. Hundreds of Yemeni families with American relatives, for example, who have fled to Djibouti, a tiny country in the Horn of Africa, to file waiver applications for visas because the United States Embassy in Yemen is closed, have been summarily denied waivers and remain stranded there.

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